Whack-o-Matic Woes (and Other Landscaping Nos)
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| Photo Credit: Patricia Dunleavy/Pinebush Farm and Nurseries, Inc. |
| Thankfully this shrub was planted out in the open instead of under a window, where it would’ve been lopped into submission. |
The practice of shaping trees and shrubs for their health and beauty has been around as long as there have been gardens. Unfortunately, so has the concept of whacking these woody plants down to balls, cubes and other unnatural shapes so the plants fit into too-small spaces. But why should a size 42-long shrub be forced into a 10-short space?
As a youngster, I had no reason to argue with my professional-landscaper father as to why people butcher shrubs. Back then, I assisted him in his whacking while learning to mimic his methods. (Yes, we were members of the “Whack-o-Matic Society.”) Years later, as I started designing plantings, I began to see plants for their own individual beauty. That’s when I began to question this barbaric hacking tradition. If shrubs were meant to be square or perfect orbs, then why didn’t God make them that way?! I came to understand that large shrubs do have a place in our landscapes. The trick is planting them where they can be gently shaped instead of beaten into submission twice a season. | Add Photo to Journal |  | | Photo Credit: Mike Waller’s Lawn Service | | When these hollies were originally picked for this space, their “mature size” wasn’t considered. |
This isn’t to say I’m against sheared hedges and evergreens. Geometry can be lovely in the landscape – in certain spots. In fact, pruning, thinning and shaping is a necessity for nice, full woody ornamentals. We just have to remember, “right plant, right place.” Planning your garden means planning for a plant’s adult size. If you want to install a shrub below your front picture window, don’t pick one that naturally grows tall enough to cover your view. And if your planting space measures 30 inches wide, then pick a plant that doesn’t grow wider than 36 inches.
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| Tips |
- Be sure to seek professional advice before cutting off too much of any shrub or tree. Not all woody plants are forgiving to a harsh trimming. Even if it’s done in the correct season, cutting back too far into old growth can actually kill some plants.
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| Tools |
- Sharp pruning tools are a must. Dull blades don’t cut branches – they chew them off. Splintered ends look ugly and can give pests an opportune entry. If your pruners don’t cut branches easily, get them sharpened. If you’ve still got a problem, it’s a sign you need a bigger pair of pruners.
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| Faqs |
- Q: The upper stems of my mophead hydrangea look dead. Should I just cut them off?
A: Big-leaf hydrangeas leaf out from the bottom up, so many people think the upper stems are dead when the rest of the shrubs are lushly leafed. But if you cut them back before you see flower buds forming on the tips of the leaf sets, you won’t have many flowers to enjoy. I like to trim my hydrangeas when they’re in full bloom. It’s a good time to do it, and I can dry the cutflowers at the height of their color.
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Page 1 of 3
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Next Steps
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Articles
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Pruning Basics
Following these simple guidelines for pruning trees and shrubs will help remove the mystery of pruning – and give you the confidence to get started.
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Why and When to Prune
Learn the reasons for pruning and the best time to do this important gardening task.
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Shrub Selection and Planting
Knowing what you want – and need – from your shrub is an important step in plant selection. Here are a few questions to consider when picking a shrub, as well as some planting tips.
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